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Lietuviskas aprasymas zemiau

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Days 55-58: Dude, Where Are My Artists???

April 3-6, 2006

Monday. Arrival.

The most important task this morning is to find out at what time the water bus is leaving for Solentiname and to not miss it, otherwise we'd be facing another two days with our eyes, ears and mouths full of Chayules! (Water buses from San Carlos to the islands go only three times per week). What sounds like the simplest possible thing to do - just go to the pier and inquire about the departure time - develops into a rather confusing experience: as many people we ask as many different answers we get! Summing all the versions up, the water bus should be leaving somewhere between noon and 2PM. So at 11AM we are ready and at the pier, just to be on the safe side… The boat, of course, doesn't leave until 2PM :)

Although the archipelago was close, the boat ride took more than two hours (it was a very slow and gentle water bus, so at least there was no need to worry about the sea sickness on this trip!). The long ride gave us enough time to consider the probabilities why some of the most famous Nicaraguan artists abandoned the big cities and the major cultural centers of Nicaragua and left for the isolated islands. Don't they ever miss the culture news and events, the bohemian life in and around theaters, art galleries, and cafes, or at least the rich clientele to notice, like and buy those beautiful works of art? It will be very interesting to ask them about this…It's also somewhat strange that neither of our fellow passengers nor the stuff onboard reminds of anything artsy. Instead of the expected cans of oil, canvases and bunches of paintbrushes, there were three giant concrete flower pots and numerous boxes with Coca-Cola, beer and food supplies. Yet, neither do we look like someone who is going to an art gallery. Appearances can be deceiving :)

At 4:30 in the afternoon we finally arrive at the little wharf of Isla San Fernando, the second largest island and, supposedly, the one where most of the painters reside. The narrow path up the little hill takes us directly into the lobby of Hotel Albergue Celentiname, straight into the arms of an elderly lady, who introduces herself as Maria Guevara, the owner of the hotel and the President of the Solentiname Artist Association. We are, of course, impressed: what a good beginning! - the very first person we meet is the most important artist of the archipelago!

Turns out senora Maria is also a painter, and the hotel lobby hosts a little exhibition of her own paintings, including one work in progress. We look around and sincerely declare that all of them are very admirable, excellent paintings. Looks like Maria has no doubt about it :) There is just one thing which starts slightly bothering us. All the beautiful Maria's canvases have been created in the so-called primitivist style, which is a bit (to say the least!) different from what we saw and fell in love with in Masaya (and came here for more…). Maria proudly confirms that all the painters of Solentiname are representatives of the primitivist style, unique to the islands of Solentiname and famous all over the world (what a shame on us to have never heard about it!).
It's getting dark, so we decide to postpone further studies of the Nicaraguan Primitivism until tomorrow.

Tuesday. Art.

Wide awake at 6AM. Not because today we have so much to do that we even give up those last hours of the sweetest morning sleep, but because we cannot stay in bed any longer! This is what happens when you are forced to bed at 9PM :)
Yesterday night we came to know one critical fact: electricity on the islands of Solentiname is practically nonexistent. There is no electricity generating plant, therefore each hotel uses its own solar panels that charge batteries throughout the day to accumulate enough electrical power for the night. For that reason, you cannot use solar electricity during the day or else the batteries will not get charged enough for the evening, while in the evening you cannot use it either because the owners shut down the system at 9PM to prevent the batteries from discharging. In other words, you can leave that laptop of yours in San Carlos because there is very little chance you will be using it on Solentiname :)

Well, once we're already awake, why don't we go and see the village waking up! Senora Maria is awake, too, so we ask her for directions to the center. For some reason, our question is evidently not understood - "What center?" - "The center of the village!" - "What village?" (Is she teasing us??) - "Well, the village/ town/ city/ whatever you call the settlement you live in….. wait… is there anything else on this island except for your hotel?"

This was where we came to know that there was no village, town or settlement of any kind on San Fernando. Apart from Hotel Albergue Celentiname, there was another hotel (Cabanas Paraiso), La Casa de las Artesanias (Artist Club-Gallery), and 5 or 6 little huts in which the locals lived, but none of them were artists whom we could visit. Maria Guevara was the only painter who resided on San Fernando, but there was a good display of other artists' works in the Gallery, just a 15-minute walk from the hotel. In case the Gallery were not able to satisfy our art crave, we could rent a hotel canoe (no public transportation among the islands) and visit the artists on La Venada and Mancarron. By the way, Mancarron, the biggest island, has a little village!

The Gallery consists of 3 compact rooms. The first one contains an exhibition of primitivist paintings. 20 or 30 canvases by different primitivist painters, but boy! - they all look almost the same as those on the walls in Maria's hotel! (we are obviously missing something essential about this primitivist style…) The second room is filled with artesanias (wooden carvings painted in bright colors). These fall under 3 most common categories: toucans, fish and butterflies. In the third room, there is an old sewing machine and 3 or 4 traditional Nicaraguan dresses on hangers in the corner of the room. Time to hurry back to Maria and get the canoe before somebody else rents it (haven't seen any other tourists in the hotel, but you never know!).

Of course, there is nobody to have snatched the canoe (looks like we are the only tourists on the entire island :)), so it's all ours for the rest of the day. The first destination is La Venada, the third biggest island, where we should find a famous artist family. To our greatest surprise, the Arellano family is already waiting for us! (One of the daughters saw us in San Carlos, and that was enough for them to assume we'd eventually come for a visit.) We are immediately escorted to the living room, where all the family members first of all introduce themselves. Every one of them, including the little Juanita, is a primitivist painter. Later on each of them begins uncovering their canvases. Very beautiful paintings indeed, and also so similar to those we've seen in Maria's hotel and in the San Fernando gallery, one could say they all have been painted by Maria.

Well, obviously it's not meant for us to come to understand the primitivist style of Solentiname. Yet, while visiting the Arellano family, we learned some interesting things, like for instance, how to justify the high price of a primitivist painting (the postcard-sized one typically costs about USD 35, and the cost reaches USD 300 for a medium-sized one). The essence of Primitivism lies in details. Every good primitivist canvas will always portray everyday country life surrounded by spectacular nature, and will be created with a striking level of detail. Every character, including the village mutts, chicken, goats, monkeys and colorful feathers of a parrot in the tree must be represented in the most detailed manner possible. Such tedious work requires lots of time, patience and adequate financial compensation.

Two hours later, after a good workout paddling against the wind, we finally disembark on Isla Mancarron, the biggest island of the archipelago. The path again leads straight into the only hotel of the island, Hotel Isla Mancarrum. Here our expedition is unexpectedly cut short by Claudio, who offers us a good price for a room, including electricity all day long!! Apparently this hotel has more powerful solar panels. Back to San Fernando to collect our stuff - we are relocating to a more advanced island!

Wednesday. Advanced.

Senora Maria had to be joking when telling us about the artist village of Mancarron. One unpaved road (the main and only street) with 10 cabins on each side, a tiny gallery and 2 pulperias (little kiosk-style shops) selling sodas, beer, matches, laundry detergents, tortilla chips, all-purpose glue and 3-week old buns. The paintings in the gallery are, of course, created in our new favorite style :) In half an hour we've walked the main street up and down 20 times, while the time is only 9AM. Let's see what we can do with the rest of the day :)

So we get back to the hotel where we immediately get served breakfast: a cup of rice and beans. Later, another cup of rice and beans for lunch. And some more rice and beans for dinner. Should we even mention that yesterday the dinner consisted of… rice and beans :) Looks like the two of us, who have been successfully managing to stay away from the major specialty of the national cuisine, will now have a chance to pay our dues in full. Before we even have enough time to fully appreciate this unique gastronomic experience we are going to have, here comes Claudio with another good news: since the last four days have been very cloudy, there may be a little shortage of electricity during the next few days, therefore maybe we could be so nice as to limit ourselves to two hours of laptop usage per day, unless the sun comes out :)
Our most sincere thanks goes to the Sun which in the afternoon decided to come out!

In the evening all the most important people of the island gather in the hotel restaurant to see the only two tourists of the islands. First, we get a courtesy visit from the local business community - the owner of one of the two pulperias and his son stop by for a chat. A bit later, the authorities - the one and only policemen of the archipelago - join the conversation, and finally, Marta, the famous artist of Mancarron, with her three little girls join the group of curious visitors. Must tell ya, it's quite unusual to be so famous! :)
The three girls are thrilled about the electronic pictures on our laptops, so we spend more than an hour going through them. In the meantime, the policeman gets very excited about our laptops and starts insisting on buying one of them. It takes us another hour to persuade him that he doesn't want the old laptop which after the wine therapy has been hardly functional, while selling the new one is completely out of the question. Finally we come to the agreement that the laptops are not for sale.

Later the policeman eagerly tells us about the crime situation of the islands. That's when we find out that we are chatting with the only policeman of Solentiname, who rarely gets very busy at work. Hardly any serious problems at all, however, occasionally the neighbors get into a fight after too much rum, while really serious criminal acts, like for instance a theft of a hen or a piglet, are a true rarity. Since there is no lockup on the islands, the criminals get a free ride to the San Carlos jail (to spend a night or two among Chayules - serves them right!).

At 9PM the electricity is over (that much for the promised reserve!), and all our guests go home, except for Marta, who doesn't leave until she squeezes out our promise to visit her shop of artesanias tomorrow in the morning. She has a new collection of toucans which she is assured we will love :)

Thursday. Adios.

Rise and shine with the morning rice and beans! Guess what's for breakfast :)) If they don't quit feeding us that stuff, soon we will no longer need a water bus. One more serving of rice and beans, and we'll be ready to fly back to San Carlos!

Luckily, today is our last day on Solentiname. There is completely nothing else we could see or do here: have strolled the main street of the "village" back and forth a hundred times, read the only book we brought twice (next time wherever we go we'll take 5 books each. You never know when is the next time you find yourself in Solentiname!), the locals are too busy with preparations for the approaching Semana Santa and have no time to chat with us, and, to top it all off, it's a cloudy morning again, so there is no electricity :)

Immediately after the breakfast Marta shows up to remind us about the artesania shop visit. Okay, okay… a promise is a promise. Very reluctantly we enter a room full of bright-colored wooden birds, fish and butterflies. Marta enthusiastically introduces the new collections on display and obviously expects us to like them and buy a lot or at least something. But have we already mentioned how much we like those colorful wooden handicrafts? :)) And even if we did, there is no way we could fill up our already overloaded Nissan with the colorful wooden animals. On the second thought, maybe we should take that humongous 4-foot tall parrot and affix it to the roof rack of the Nissan?? Alternatively, we could place it on the front passengers seat…
Half an hour later, we leave the store having obtained 3 little fish from the last season's collection. Marta is disappointed with our meager choice, while we don't even need the fishies… but we are the only visitors this week, and our purchase is possibly the only weekly income for Marta and her three girls.

We couldn't be more excited when at noon the sun shows up and stays there until late in the afternoon! Claudio, however, is much less thrilled to see how fast we (i.e. our laptops) consume all the fresh electricity :)) This way the day goes by, and since it's our last day on Solentiname, the farewell dinner portion of rice and beans is significantly bigger! Later in the evening all our new friends show up for the farewell party: the policemen, the boy from the pulperia, and Marta with the girls. We can hardly believe our eyes when we see a butterfly collection appearing out of Marta's bag… Marta spreads the colorful wooden insects out on the table, and again we see no other way out as to buy… one more little fish to complement our first artesania set :)

At 9 o'clock Claudio turns the electricity generator off, and everybody goes to sleep. The water bus to San Carlos is leaving at 3:30AM. Six more hours to wait. All in all, the 4 days on Solentiname have been an unforgettable experience. So it's all good! :)

Tip #1: Out of the two hotels of San Fernando, the one run by Maria Guevara (Hotel Albergue Celentiname) is a better deal. You can get a very simple room with clean shared bathroom for USD 4 per person. Otherwise go for a splurge and get yourself a nice private cabin in the jungle for USD 25+ (this price includes the meals). The other hotel (Hotel Cabanas Paraiso) is even pricier. On Mancarron, you can negotiate a USD 15 per person, with 2 meals.

Tip #2: Accommodation prices typically include 3 meals (in Hotel Isla Mancarrum all of them consist of rice and beans with a little something on the side (a slice of cheese for breakfast or a piece of meat and platanito for lunch and dinner :)). Don't decide to cut down the price by refusing the meals (thinking you'll find a cheaper place to eat than the hotel restaurant). The hotel restaurants are the only eating establishments on the islands, and you will end up going back and paying USD 5 for a meal.

Tip #3: If you are an active person who likes to always be involved in some dynamic activity, think twice before staying on Solentiname for a week :)

BTW: The sunsets on Islas Solentiname are truly amazing.

Click on the pictures to enlarge

On this vessel we'll escape from Chayules!

Lago Nicaragua Water Bus (Colectivo)

Vandens autobusas

Laundry day in the artist village

Approaching San Fernando Island

Dailiai dziusta menininku apatiniai

Fresh water pig?

A Pig

Geluju vandenu kiaule?

The evening routine of the islands: gorgeous sunsets, followed by 15 minutes of electricity, followed by mandatory bed time.

Sunset in Solentiname

Po sio nuostabaus saulelydzio galesite 15 minuciu pasinaudoti elektra, o po to - visi i lovas!

The serene beauty of Solentiname

Views from San Fernando

Grazus gamtos vaizdelis :)

Inter-island Express

Inter-island Trasportation

Maziau dairykis, daugiau irkluok!

Another surprise from our chef

Daily Dose of Rise and Beans

Kasdieniniu musu pupu duok mums siandien...

The main (and only) street of the Mancarron village

The Main Street of Mancaron Village

Pagrindine (ir vienintele) Mancarron'o kaimo gatve

Artesanias for sale

Artists' Workshops on Mancaron

Parduodame medinius pauksciukus ir drugelius

Egret - $5, parrot - $8, leopard - $12, one week on Solentiname - priceless.

Primitive Style #2


Another painting in our new favourite style...

Primitive Style #3


... and some more of the famous Nicaraguan Primitivism

Primitive style #1


One bird here, one bird there, plenty birdies everywhere!

Artesanias #1


Three hundred and one, three hundred and two...

Artesanias #2

Vienas pauksciukas, du pauksciukai... trys simtai sesiolika pauksciuku...

The catch of the week

Artesanias #3

Zuvys is pernykstes Martos kolekcijos

Nuvesk pelyte virs paveiksliuko, spustelk jos kaire ausele, ir paveiksliukas padides

55- 58- oji dienos: Sveiki, papuole i Solentiname!

2006 m. balandzio 3 - 6

Pirmadienis. Pradzia.

Is ryto skubame i prieplauka ir nekantriai laukiame vandens autobuso i Solentiname. Turetu isplaukti intervale tarp 12 ir 2 val. po pietu - kiek zmoniu teiravomes apie grafika, tiek skirtingu atsakymu gavom :) Del viso pikto, nutarem jau 11 valanda buti prieplaukoje. Geriau jau siek tiek palauksim, negu, praziopsoje sita valti, lauksim kitos iki ketvirtadienio. Valtis, zinoma, isplaukia tik 2-ra valanda.

Pakeliui i Solentiname bandome spelioti, kodel garsiausi salies menininkai issikrauste gyventi i sitaip sunkiai eiliniam mirtingajam pasiekiamas salas. Truputi keista, kad kurybingoms sieloms nei kiek netruksta miesto surmulio, kulturiniu renginiu, galeriju, parodu, bohemisku vakaru ir pokalbiu su bendraminciais jaukiose kavinukese... arba bent jau turtingu klientu! Bus idomu pasikalbeti su paciais dalininkais ir ta issiaiskinti. Smalsiai apziurinejame bendrakeleivius ir ju lagaminus. Tikejomes matyti dezes su dazu, drobes ir teptuku atsargomis, taciau su mumis kartu plaukia tik trys milzininsko dydzio betoniniai vazonai, begalybe deziu su coca cola, alum ir kitokiais gerimais, bei maisai maisto atsargu. Keleiviai irgi nelabai panasus i meno myletojus arba kurejus, bet jau ne karta pasimokem, kad pirmas ispudis - nebutinai teisingas. Musu paciu pasiredymas irgi mazai primena i galerija issiruosusius meno myletojus :)

Apie 4:30 po pietu pagaliau atplaukiam i San Fernando, antra pagal dydi is salu. Mazytej prieplaukoj ropsciames is vandens autobuso ir kopiame takeliu i kalniuka. Takelis baigiasi iejimu i viesbuti, kuriame mus pasitinka maloni pagyvenusi moteris - "sveiki atvyke, as - Maria Guevara, Solentinames meninku sajungos prezidente" Cia tai bent!! Pirmasis Solentiname sutiktas zmogus - svarbiausia salos menininke! Jeigu ir toliau taip seksis, ko gero busime atrade perla Nikaragvos ezere.
Maria aprodo viesbuti - visos sienos ispuostos jos tapytais paveikslais. Tolimiausiame terasos kampe - ka tik pradetas peizazas, salimais - tvarkingai surikiuoti dazai ir teptukai, o horizonte uz viesbucio tyluteliai i ezera leidziasi saule.... kone idilija! Vienintelis mazytis trukumas - Marios paveikslai siek tiek (svelniai tariant) skiraisi nuo tu, kuriuos mateme Masajoje, ir del kuriu plaukeme i salas; o i klausima, ar visi Solentinames dailininkai tapo panasiu stiliumi, Maria su pasididziavimu atsako - "O kaip gi! Mes visi cia esame garbingo primityviojo stiliaus atstovai!".
Primityvusis Nikaragvos dailes stilius - nauja savoka musu zodyne. O kas gali buti idomiau, nei galimybe pazinti ir mokytis? Sedame i Marios pasiulytas supamas kedes (jau raseme, kad Nikaragvoje visos kedes - supamos) ir svajojame apie labai primityvu rytoju....

Antradienis. Primityvizmas.

Siandien keliames anksti, nes miegoti irgi guleme kartu su senjoros Marios vistomis. Jau vakar vakare isaiskejo kritiskai svarbus dalykas - Solentiname salose beveik nera elektros. Elektrines salose nera, todel koznas namas verciasi kaip ismano. Zmones cia dazniausiai vakaroja tik tol, kol sudega zvake, o keliasi vos prabreskus - taip ilgina diena. Visi trys Solentinames viesbuciai naudoja saules energija - per visa diena kraunami akumuliatoriai, kad vakare restorane ir sveciu kambariuose butu sviesos. Jei diena apsiniaukusi - elektros ta vakara bus mazai. Trumpai tariant, diena elektros nera, nes akumuliatoriai kraunami, o vakare bus tik labai trumpai, nes akumuliatoriai labai greitai issikrauna. :) Todel apie 9 val. vakaro visi, iskaitant prezidente Maria, issiskirsteme po savo kambarius miegoti.

Diena pradedame nuo suzinojimo, jog San Fernando saloje be Marios viesbucio (Hotel Albergue Celentiname), dar vieno viesbucio (Hotel Cabanas Paraiso) ir menininku namu-galerijos (La Casa de las Artesanias) yra dar kokie 5 ar 6 gyvenami namai, issibarste po visa sala ir sunkiai pasiekiami. Jei neminesime neizengiamu dziungliu, San Fernando saloje daugiau nieko nera. Negana to, anot Marios, visame archipelage yra tik pora menininku seimu, kurios gyvena nepasislepusios nuo lankytoju, ir maloniai mus priims (o tai kur visos knygoj minetos galerijos ir dirbtuves?!).

La Casa de las Artesanias susideda is triju nedideliu kambariu. Pirmajame - primityviojo stiliaus paveikslu ekspozicija. Deja, musu itarimas pasitvirtina - visi paveikslai labai panasus i matytus Marios viesbutyje... Nuostabus paveikslai! - taciau mums, ko gero, neskirta sio puikaus stiliaus pamegti..... Antrajame kambaryje - artesaniju ekspozicija. Trys dideli stalai nukrauti spalvingais medzio droziniais: ryskiaspalviais pauksciukais, drugeliais ir zuvytemis. Treciasis kambarys, pats maziausias, primena sterilia siuvykla - viduryje stovi vienisa senovine siuvimo masina, o uz jos pakabintos kelios tautines sukneles. Uz nepilnos valandos meno namu apziura baigiame ir keliaujame atgal pas Maria.

Abejoniu, kad savaitelei strigom Nikaragvos primityvizme, beveik nebelieka. Bet labai suaktualeja klausimas - ka veikti iki penktadienio viesbutyje be elektros (atplaukeme tam visai nepasiruose - pasiemem tik viena knyga, ir ta pacia jau abu ipuseje). Labai pravercia Marios pasiulymas aplankyti gretimas salas. La Venadoje gyvena seima, kurios visi nariai tapo paveikslus ir labai megsta lankytojus. O saloje Mancarron yra vienintele Solentinames gyvenviete, kurioje rasime daug rankdarbiu parduotuviu ir dailes galeriju.

Gaunam valtele, i rankas - po irkla, ir uz pusvalandzio (puiki rytine manksta!! :) jau svartuojames La Venados pakranteje. Musu didziausiam nustebimui, garsioji dailininku seiyna jau musu laukia! Jauna panele - viena is dukteru dailininkiu - paaiskina, jog turistu Solentinameje tiek nedaug, kad buvome pastebeti ir isidemeti dar San Carlose, todel dabar visi Solentinames gyventojai tikisi, kad uzsuksim i svecius :)). Uzeiname i svetaine, kur susirenka visa gausi seimyna, ir priesdulkiniai apdangalai skrieja salin nuo daugybes PRIMITYVISTINIU paveikslu, isdestytu po visa kambari... Net ir mazoji Juanita - primityviste! Tradicijos cia gilios.

Dailininku seimynos deka pagaliau suprantame, kodel sio, nepatyrusia akim ziurint - labai paprasto, stiliaus paveikslai - tokie brangus. Doleriai, pasirodo, slypi miniatiurinese detalese - jei 50 x 70 cm paveiksle gali iziureti papugos plunksnu issidestyma ar leopardo usa, maziau nei uz $150 tokio paveikslo nei nesitikek. Uzklausiame draugiskosios seimynos apie ju gyvenimo buda - ar visi nuo ankstyvo ryto ciumpa po teptuka ir per diena tapo? Pasirodo -ne. Diena prasideda nuo tradicines rytines namu ruosos (gyvuliai, darzas, zvejyba, virtuve). Po to, jei lieka laiko, iki pietu visi siek tiek patapo. Po siestos - vel ukio darbai, ir galiausiai po vakarienes visa seimyna susirenka vakarinei tapymo sesijai.

Irkluoti pries veja i priesingoje San Fernando puseje esancia Mancarrono sala sekasi daug leciau, todel kranta pasiekiam jau po pietu. Takelis is prieplaukos ir cia veda tiesiai i vieninteli salos viesbuti (Hotel Isla Mancarrum), tad neisvengiamai papuolame tiesiai seimininkui Claudio i rankas. Jau per pirmasias 5 minutes pokalbio isaiskeja, kad Claudio turi daugiau elektros uz Maria, todel ta pati vakara persikraustom i viesbuti Mancarrono saloje.

Treciadienis. Pozityvizmas.

Pasakodama apie Mancarrono salos gyvenviete, Maria akivaizdziai pajuokavo. Vienas zole apzeles takas, gal 15 padrikai issibarsciusiu lusneliu (is kuriu kas antra skelbiasi esanti meno galerija-parduotuve, bet kieme nesimato nei gyvos dvasios) ir net 2 miniatiurines parduotuveles-kioskeliai (vieninteles dvi parduotuves visame archipelage!), kuriose galima nusipirkti degtuku, skalbimo milteliu, kukuruzu traskuciu, triju savaiciu senumo bandeliu, kliju, alaus ir coca-colos.

Grize is pasivaiksciojimo po gyvenviete, gauname pusrycius - po puodeli ryziu su pupomis. Pietums - po dar viena puodeli ryziu ir pupu. Vakarienei - tas pats. Jau net neminesime, kad vakar vakare irgi buvo ryziai su pupomis. Alternatyva - kukuruzu traskuciai su alum is kaimo kiosko. Pastaruosius pasiliekame desertui :) Dar nespeje atsidziaugti, kad pagaliau turesime pakankamai laiko neskubedami pasimegauti tautines Nikaragvos virtuves ypatybemis, suzinome kita puikia naujiena - paskutine savaite, atseit, visos dienos buvo labai apsiniaukusios, todel saules baterijos neprigamino pakankamai elektros atsargu. Tad viesbutyje elektros bus tik tokiu atveju, jei prades sviesti saule :) (Aciu saulei, kad apie pusiaudieni porai valandu "isijunge"!).

Vakare musu apziureti susirenka visas archipelago elitas: vienintelis Solentinames policininkas su dideliu sautuvu, vieno is kiosku savininkas su sunumi bei aktyviausia kaimo artesaniju gamintoja Marta su trimis mazomis dukrytemis, kurioms didziausia ispudi padaro nuotraukos musu kompiuteriuose - ziurime jas gera valanda. Tuo tarpu policininkui ispudi padaro patys kompai, ir jis kategoriskai uzsimano viena is ju pirkti - parduokite ir viskas!. Tenka labai ilgai irodineti, kad senasis laptopas po vyno terapijos beveik nebeveikia, ir jam bus geriau jo is musu nepirkti, o apie issiskyrima su naujuoju negali buti net kalbos, ir didelio jo sautuvo mes taip pat nebijome! :) Siaip ne taip sutariam, kad kompiuteriai - neparduodami :)

Uzklausiame policininko apie kriminogenine Solentinames situacija - ar policija cia turi daug darbo? Tada ir suzinome, kad siuo metu snekuciuojames su vieninteliu salu policininku, o kriminaline padetis - pakenciama: tarp 36 salose gyvenanciu tukstancio gyventoju rimtu nusikalteliu nera, taciau kartais tenka skubeti pas prie butelaicio susipesusius kaimynus, o retkarciais pasitaiko ir dideliu nusikaltimu- buna, kad is kurio nors kiemo dingsta vista, o kita karta - net gi parselis! Uz tokius bjaurius darbus ilgapirsciai keliauja I San Carlos cype, nes Solentinameje kalejimo nera.

Apie 9 valanda baigiasi elektros atsargos, ir visi issiskirsto po namus, isskyrus Marta, kuri iseina tik pagaliau gavusi pazada, jog rytoj 11 valanda ryto butinai apsilankysim jos rankdarbiu parduotuveje apziureti naujausios pauksciuku kolekcijos.

Ketvirtadienis. Pagaliau.

Turbut nebeverta net mineti, kad pusryciams gauname ryziu su pupomis. Jeigu ir toliau mums taikys tokia dieta, nebereiks nei vandens autobuso - atgal i San Carlosa isskrisim balionu pavidalu. Laimei, siandien paskutine diena. Veikti nebera ka - "gyvenviete" jau isvaiksciojom dvidesimt kartu, vienintele knyga perskaitem po 2 kartus (nuo siol visur nesiosimes po 5 knygas - niekad nezinai, kada papulsi i Solentiname!!), elektros ir siryt nera, nes vis dar apsiniauke, zmones uzsieme savais darbais - arteja Velykos, tad visi valosi, tvarkosi ir ruosiasi, kaip ismanydami, net mumis nebesidomi... :)

Pries 11 pasirodo Marta pasitikslinti, ar neuzmirsom uzeiti i parduotuve. Neuzmirsom, tik tikejomes, kad gal ji pati uzmirs ateiti :) Ka gi, tenka eiti su Marta i jos rankdarbiu krautuvele apziureti jau tukstanti kartu matytu artesaniju (tie mediniai gyvuneliai visoje Nikaragvoje identiski!) Naujausios ryskiaspalviu pauksciuku kolekcijos akcentas - metro dydzio dailiai nuspalvinta papuga, kuria Marta reklamuoja labiau uz visas likusias artesanijas kartu sudejus. Nebesusilaikom ir tyliai kikenam, isivaizduodami sia ispudinga papuga pritvirtinta prie Nissano stogo arba pasodinta ant priekines sedynes...
Sprendziant pagal turistu "antpludi", musu pirkinys gali buti vieninteles Martos ir jos mergaiciu savaites pajamos. Vadinasi, teks kazka nupirkti. Dideliam Martos nusivylimui, ispudingoji papuga lieka parduotuveje, o mes iseiname isigije 3 nedideles zuvytes is praejusio sezono kolekcijos.

Mums labai pasiseka, nes diena danguje trumpam pasirodo elektros gamintoja. Viesbucio savininkui Klaudijui pasiseka daug maziau, nes visa naujai sugeneruota elektra mes kaip mat sunaudojam :) Taip pagaliau sulaukiam vakaro. Spekit, ko gaunam vakarienei… Siandien musu isleistuves, todel ryziu ir pupu doze - zymiai didesne! :))) Be to, susirenka visi musu "draugai" - policininkas, berniukas is kiosko ir Marta su mergaitemis, kuri - sunkiai galime patiketi tuo, ka matome! - is krepsio traukia ir ant stalo rikiuoja mediniu drugeliu kolekcija… Is mandagumo nuperkam dar viena zuvi :)

Apie 9 valanda tradiciskai baigiasi elektra, taciau del to nebesijaudiname. 3:30 ryto I San Carlos isplaukia vandens autobusas. Pagaliau :)

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